BREAD: Britain’s greatest loaf affair.
We toast it, butter it, dunk it, sandwich it, fry it, stuff it, crumb it and, when all else fails, turn it into pudding.
Bread can be breakfast, lunch, supper, the thing that holds the burger together, or simply the emergency slice eaten over the sink because dinner’s still twenty minutes away.
Bread has its own geopolitics in Britain – it seems, we’ve never been able to agree on what to call it.
That innocent little round loaf you might ask for as a bread roll can become a cob in the Midlands, a barm in parts of Lancashire and Greater Manchester, a bap in Staffordshire and elsewhere, a batch in Coventry (but only Coventry), a bun in the North East, and a bread cake or even a teacake in parts of Yorkshire.
One piece of dough, several counties and enough vocabulary to start an argument in a café.
Research by the University of Leeds’ dialect project found that bread roll was the most widely used term overall, but only 28% of respondents chose it, the rest calling something else.
Even the simplest of bakery orders can become a regional identity test.
And we are certainly not a nation that has fallen out of love with the stuff.
DID YOU KNOW:
Bread is bought by 99% of UK households, according to the Federation of Bakers.
More than 4.1 billion bakery units are sold each year, including around 2.7 billion wrapped bakery products, while the average household buys a little over 80 loaves a year.
The wider UK bakery market is worth almost £6 billion.
There is also something wonderfully British about the sheer variety.
We have the soft, square sandwich loaf, crusty farmhouse loaves, sourdoughs, bloomers, baguettes, rolls, buns, baps, cobs and barm cakes.
We have regional specialities, traditional recipes and breads whose names tell stories about the places where they were made.
And then there are the great bread-based institutions – the bacon butty, the fish finger sandwich, beans on toast, cheese on toast, egg and cress, the humble packed lunch and that most comforting of puddings … bread and butter pudding.
So this week, we celebrate the staff of life in all its glorious forms. From the humble slice popping from the toaster to the artisan loaf that requires two hands and a small mortgage, bread is far more than something we spread jam on.
It is history, geography, industry, comfort and occasionally, the cause of a surprisingly heated argument about, well – simply what to call it.
Whatever you call it, pass the Stokes.